Main reason for my coming to Split was to fix my teeth. When I was a kid I had a horrible dentist. I had pigmentation that my dentist thought were cavities and basically she diged a hole in all of my teeth. She never gave me anaesthetics and I was so traumatised of seeing a dentist ever again. As I got older I started having problems with my teeth and my next dentist was cleaning my canals. When she cemented my tooth there was a crack and for a long time food gathered under my front teeth. I had a huge cist that was slowly killing my front teeth and they weakened and started chipping off. I came to split to fix them because it’s cheaper and the dentists are much better. My family comes from Split and I have it somewhere in my heart and always enjoy visiting it. Teeth were not the only reason I came. I came for good food and Ultra music festival of course.
I will put this post in segments so it is easier for you to read , I stayed for 2 weeks so I am afraid I would be writing too much if I started banging away on my keyboard.
FOOD in Split
F de mar
F de mar is located on the west coast, a bit away from all the ruckus but a completely different experience. F group owns all three bars on west coast. Super yachts are usually always there, so it is almost like a boat show. You can enjoy very good quality Croatian food with a twist and amazing cocktails. During sunset the sky changes into amazing pastel colours and the moon is humongous, and you get to see all of it. Service is 10+, everyone will be more then happy to help you out and you can enjoy your drinks and dinner. Price wise nothing to dissimilar to other, for around 50£ you get a nice bottle of prosecco or wine and meals for two people. Of course depends what you order.
Chops and grill
Just off Marmontova street, in a little passage , surrounded by bars and restaurants, there is an awesome grill restaurant called chops and grill. We ate there but we went a bit classic. I had pesto spaghetti, which is not even on the menu, but they gave it to me anyways. Caesar salad and a steak. It is the best steak you will eat in Split. The meat is bought from the local farmers and it arrives warm to the restaurant. It is a very good place if you are looking to eat something that will not fall hard on your stomach. A proper meal for two with a bottle of wine will cost you from 40 to 60£
We went there to catch some wifi since at home we didn’t have it. Radisson is not very close, but a taxi can take you there in 5 minutes. They have a nice selection of restaurants and bars and of course the pool. Sunsets are simply amazing at their pool and prices are not much different from those you get in the center.
Shopping in Split
If you are coming to Shop in Split there is a huge selection of small independent shops, or of course there are two shopping centers you can visit. The selections are quite typical.
Joker is a shopping center maybe 10 min with a car from center. Has some good brands if you are in to freshening up your wardrobe and also some independent shoe shops with awesome prices. Also my dentist is located at Joker so I spent a lot of time there.
City Centre One is a famous chain of shopping centers and it consists of vrands you already probably heard of. Best way to get there is by bus.
You will undoubtly pass this street and there are some stuff you will pass by. I would suggest you visit shops like Massimo Dutti and Killah as they are not that common in rest of the Europe and they offer high quality for not a lot of money. At the top of Marmontova you also have shops like Guess if you are in to that sort of stuff.
Alleys in the heart of Split offer a huge selection of accesssorie shops and shoe shops. Of course you will find souvenirs and other stuff so do walk around to find something interesting.
THINGS WORTH KNOWING
If you want to pass somewhat cheap you should look for suspicions bars with lots of loud locals. To most local people touristic bars are too expensive so they hang in their local bars. Really great advices, as local people are hilarious and they love to meet and welcome strangers in their cafes.
Prices are quite high. Sometimes even more expensive than London but then again, some other things are a lot cheaper so don’t be to discouraged by the prices. Try choosing more traditional restaurants outside the tourist zone and have some wine for god sakes they have great selections.
Well you can always go to ultra Music festival. If you are not in to that then there is a lot of pool and beach parties around that are warming up for Ultra. All you can try party sailing ? Most clubs in split are not recommended. Split needs to work a bit on it’s nightlife.
Cocktail bars are everywhere and they are mostly really good. A lot of Croatian people love making cocktails and finish special educations so you will not get bad ones…although it can happen.
Beaches and sports
You can always go to Bacvice, which is very popular…of course that is where everyone goes. I wouldn’t go there, I went once and it was enough. Marjan is a good place for sports and swimming. It is not so crowded and you also have bars and restaurants.
Things to know when coming to Split
DO NOT! DOOOO NOT! Take a cab. Take a bus, taxis will rip you off if you are on a budget. 40£ to get to Split. It may not seem much to you but it is.
Book in advance, it is not cheap and it is really hard to get it, especially during ultra. If I were you I would rent something for a week or two. If you can get a Croatian person to go on Croatian classifieds you can make a deal with local people that are renting for ‘’long term’’ to rent you for much cheaper for 2 weeks…even cheaper than airbnb or hotels. Hotels are not so nice mostly but there are good ones, so do a bit of research.
People in Split are slow but they love joking. They can be judgemental but in a funny way. Most of them are happy to help out or crack a joke especially if you buy them a drink. If you can say something in Croatian you will be a star. I wouldn’t provoke much if I were you. These people were raised on the streets and they can act like it. It is common that a lot of them don’t speak English.
You can get a bus. It is pretty straight forward. It costs 1£ per ticket and they drive everywhere , just ask people they will tell you. Taxi’s are ok not too expensive but more expensive then rest of Croatia. There is only 150 taxi cars in whole Split and 100 000 tourists… you make the calculation .
Pasticada is a traditional dalmatian specialty. It is made with gnocchi and a very tender piece of beef thigh. It is marinated in wine vinegair for 24-48 hours before being cooked for 5 hours. The correct recipe is online. It is amazing! No restaurant can make that correctly , it has to be made by a local, but you can try your luck in restaurants, however they will not be even close to the real thing.
Bevanda is wine mixed with water. In other parts if it’s with sparkling water they call it gemist. Reason why wine is mixed with water is because in summer it gets hot and we all know what the hangovers are like when you get dehydrated and drunk.
It is a famous Croatian spirit. It comes in many variations. My favourites are Medica (honey) and Visnjevac (Cherry). For those braver people you can try Sljivovica (plum) Travarica (herbs) or Kruskovac (Pear). They are super strong, some of them reach 40% in alcohol, but if they are good, you won’t have a lot of headache.
You can watch my Rakija adventure here.
And at the end of course, the architecture and scenery is amazing. Some parts of Game of thrones were shot in Split so you can imagine how amazing this little city is. It is a proper gem and you really need to visit it. Don’t forget to touch the big toe of Grgur Ninski and make a wish before leaving.